Day 33: Chicago- The City/Rural contrast

To many of us that live in more rural areas, cities look like they epitomize the opportunity for individuality. In small towns you can’t get away with brightly colored hair, dressing up on any day other than Sunday (unless a special occasion permits) or being loud and outspoken without feeling ostracized. In a big city people are not only permitted to do this in abudance, they can actually do so without criticism. There are simply so many people from so many different walks of life that no one has time to care, nor a right to judge.


Today I headed to one of those cities: Chicago. It isn’t the first big city I’ve been to. I visit Baltimore on occasion to see my cousin, and we also go to Washington D.C. I’ve been to Miami, I was born in the L.A. area and have been back many times to visit family, and Kansas City is a short drive away. Chicago wasn’t my first big city, but it was about to inspire a change in perception of big city living.

The view from the top of my friend's apartment building in Chicago. June 10, 2011

The drive to the city wasn’t too long, and I was lucky to have the company of my friend (who invited me to shoot off the cannon a few days prior) that had a conference to attend in Chicago starting the same day I would be arriving. 380 miles into the 475 mile drive we stopped at a gas station to fill up, both my Jeep and ourselves, and something very familiar was adorning the merchendise racks. The university I attend is fairly small, but nearly 400 miles away we found a pocket of university t-shirts, hats and other apparell. As I paid for my beverages I asked the cashier why he had this particular school’s items for sale, and he said a lot of people from around here go to that school. I would never have thought…
Driving in Chicago is something else. The GPS is all but worthless with streets being so close together, or often stacked on top of eachother, and the tall sky scrapers blocking the satellite signal. Parking is limited, and expensive. Before dropping my friend off near her conference location we decided to visit the towerplace mall. Parking was more expensive than what money we spend in the mall itself.

The "L", the best way to get around in Chicago. June 10, 2011

Then it was time for me to find my recently-Chicagan friend’s apartment. Parking overnight here would cost $25, and finding the place itself was a bit of an adventure. My GPS would think I was on a street one over than I was actually on, would lose signal often, and tell me to turn left where there was no road because it thought I was on the bottom road, not the top, of a layered street. I was incredibly thankful once I found the parking garage…even if it set off an annoying alarm when I pulled in.

Chicago June 10, 2011

Another friend of mine, who moved to the Chicago area several years ago, met up with us at my new Chicagan friend’s apartment and we headed out to explore the city. We visited Millenium Park, looked down at Grand Avenue from the top of his building, enjoyed gourmet popcorn, and then took the L to China town where we ate authentic Chinese food. The L was certainly the way to get around in Chicago. No stress of figuring out where to turn next, no parking fees, and best of all you can actually drink what you want to enjoy without having to worry about a D.D.

In front of the Art museum in Millenium Park, Chicago, June 10 2011

As I wandered the streets of Chicago with my friends I realized something. The people of the city aren’t necessarily free to be who they want, they are trying to express themselves since they can’t accomplish it in other ways. One of the biggest pieces of who I am, the vehicles I own and enjoy to drive, are things that many Chicagans simply can’t enjoy. It’s too expensive to drive, or for that matter park, anywhere. Gas is more expensive, apartments soar into the sky with little room for parking, and streets are crowded making travel inconvienent.

An alley in Chicago. June 10, 2011

The bold hair colors and wild clothes aren’t necessarily what these people want to portray, it’s just the only way to stand out in a crowd of thousands. How can anyone express their individuality in a sea of so many people? The subtleties are lost. Cities aren’t places where you are free to be yourself: They are places where you have to be loud for anyone to recognize who you are. While in small town culture you have to have subtle differences since everyone is so notieable, in a city you have to swing in the opposite direction, playing up every quality you want to be noticed.
Neither city nor rural area are above each other. I used to think that since I liked to dress up often, and since I had my own style, I would fit in better in city living. I have now discovered this isn’t true- driving is such an intergral part of my being that I would never be able to be myself in such a place. I had spent so much of my life, as many of us do, looking at the greener grass in the neighbors pasture. Suddenly I knew that I like right where I am. Life is good, and while I still plan on moving around to wherever my job takes me, I can be happy no matter where I am. The goal isn’t to dress down, or dress up, for anyone. I just do what I like, regardless what others think, and there is no place that can make you feel comfortable in that.
The thing in charge of your happiness is you.
-Nicole

The elusive elevator button I kept trying to get a clear pic of. Chicago, June 10 2011
The stage in Millenium Park, Chicago. June 10, 2011
Millenium Park, Chicago. The big videos of faces will spit water out at you. June 10, 2011
Art in Millenium Park. Chicago June 10, 2011
"The L" of Chicago. June 10, 2011

Day 32: My Non-Human Friends

All of my friends have already expressed at how they feel about me leaving again so soon after returning, as tomorrow I will be headed out again, not to return until the end of July….but my non-human friends  usually find a way to show that they care without words. Here are a few of my “non-human” friends that I had to say good-bye to before I head out on my Western Loop tomorrow.

The toad above took up residence in my shoe, my Siberian husky, Shaqua, decided to look cute, and the tree frogs serenaded me with their nightly song…

My beautiful dog, Shaqua. She turns 8 years old on June 14th!!!
This year we had a LOT of snow in Missouri...Shaqua, my siberian husky, thoroughly enjoyed it! March 2011
The tree frogs are some of my buddies....they hang out at the lamp every night just to say good night.
If my tree frog buddies aren't on the lamp, they'll hang out on one of my various tropical plants in the summer.
The toad came to visit me this week...and tried to steal my friend's money while we were watching a movie. Bad toad...
I'm telling the toad that stealing money isn't the way to make new friends...
One of my numerous tropicals, my Plumeria....incredibly fragrant. I winterize all my tropicals to survive the MO winters indoors....eventually I will be posting blogs and tips about that here on geojeep.
One of my several tropical hibiscus plants
A couple of my orchid plants, left in the care of my sister.
An orchid that was given to me by a very good friend. It's probably one of my favorites. 🙂 "Dragon orchid"
My sister's cat....
My sister's cat, Callie, will have to make friends with my parent's dog, Sasha, while I'm gone.
Sasha, all curled up and tired...
One of my best friends' dog, Bruce. He's my buddy.
These cattle have followed me when I go on my long walks on gravel roads...

Animals tend to like me, and I like them. I will miss them all, but I have many things to see and missions to accomplish. There is one animal I won’t miss too much: This deer that I hit back in November…..yeah, the deer can beg all they want, but I wouldn’t stay for them. Animals like me so much they even come after my car (See also my New Mexican Cattle experience!)

The buck I got before deer season started. I bagged it with my Jeep, "29" in November 2010
what "29", my Jeep, looked like post-deer and pre-shop in Nov 2010

Day 31: Shooting A Cannon

So, you may be wondering “What is Nicole going to be doing while she is home?”

I mean…honestly..what COULD be so exciting at home that I would want to be there for a whole 4 days before I set out on my Western loop…..or rather, what could possibly get me out of bed (after such an exhausting last month) when I am home simply to relax.

One word: Cannon

I am very fortunate to have two fantastic friends (bf and gf), both of them involved in the sciences and recently graduated from the same University I currently attend, that invited me along on a cannon shooting. My friend works at a coffee shop that a man, who happens to be a genius and manufactures his own beautiful, working cannons, frequents. He invited her to come out with some friends to shoot the cannon….and she invited me!

I went out there thinking he would simply tell us about the cannon, shoot it a few times, and then we’d be on our way, merry that we were able to see up close how a cannon works. I got the first part right: He showed us the cannon, showed us how he made it and how he did all his calculations to get it so accurate (I should have come to him when I needed help with calculus…he does it for fun!), and then shot it once to show us how it works…

….then, he handed over the controls to us. It was time for us to each get a turn at loading the cannon, sighting it in for his lake, and then lighting it up to watch the splash.

Yes…I can honestly say I have loaded and shot a cannon. The following photos are proof!

So….What can you do to keep things interesting in rural Missouri? Well, shoot a cannon of course!!!

-Nicole

The cannon I will shoot...fuse burning as the creator has just lit his demonstrative cannon firing.
This cannon has a name. Black Mamba. Yay!
A close up of the springs on the cannon
The Black Mamba's barrell...something you don't want to be standing in front of!
I pour in the pre-measured vial of black powder.
I push the metal ball down into the barrell, against the black powder.
I sight in the cannon, aiming for the lake. The builder of this cannon has manufactured it to be incredibly accurate, it is AMAZING!
After everything is prepared, it's time to light the fuse!
My own successful firing of the cannon.

PLEASE DO NOT SHOOT A CANNON BY YOURSELF!!! MY FRIENDS AND I WERE COACHED AND SUPERVISED BY A TRAINED CANNON BUILDER! CANNONS ARE VERY DANGEROUS WEAPONS AND ARE NOT TO BE PLAYED WITH!!!!

 

Day 30: Historical Homes of MO

When one thinks of a vacation, or touring a place of significant historical or geologic value, we tend to forget to visit those places that are right next door. It may seem like a joke to say many New Yorkers have never been to the Statue of Liberty, or that many Missourians have never visited the St. Louis Arch, but this tends to be true. We seem to make the mistake that doing these sort of things are reserved for vacations, a chance to get away from it all (including anything that resembles home).

It’s time to reclaim our weekends, those days off where we think there isn’t enough time to do anything besides veg out in front of the TV. There are plenty of places to visit locally- So no matter where you live, there are things to see and do, many for free or nearly-so.If you haven’t found them, you aren’t looking hard enough (or your taste for interesting places to visit is too picky and you’ll starve no matter where you live….Get cultured, people!)

While there are many different types of places to see in Missouri, my home state, today I will focus on Historical Homes. These are a very small collection of the places you can visit near by…. there are many others I have yet to enjoy, and I plan to do so some day. History, and namely historic architecture, has always been one of my many interests. I especially love stairs, antique door knobs, and windows…. If you ever get a chance to review my photography you’ll note how many pictures I take of these. Many of these places I enjoy simply because of the architecture, but they are preserved because of their history and cultural importance.

If you live in Missouri, or if you plan on visiting Missouri, consider these places for a quick visit. They will educate you (and your children if you have any), inspire you, and stimulate your understanding of the world that was.

While I certainly advocate travel to increase your breadth of knowledge, sometimes staying near home is the only thing in the budget. I’ve said this before, and I’ll say it again: There is absolutely no excuse, even money, for you to not get out and enjoy all that the world has to offer. Enjoy those things that are foreign, and those of your locale. You may discover something new about yourself.

-Nicole

Bothwell Lodge of Sedalia, MO

What I paid for tour: $6*

An old board game in Bothwell Lodge. The mansion is furnished with such time appropriate items (furniture, games, books, etc)
The terrace at Bothwell Lodge of Sedalia, MO. Overlooks 65 hwy in the far distance.
An architectural sketch of Bothwell. The first wing was completed in 1897. This mansion was even equipped with one of the earliest versions of electricity. (Yes, you get to see the old batteries that made lighting possible on the tour)

Ravenswood near Boonville, MO

What I paid for tour: $4*

Ravenswood Historic Home. Another favorite part of historic homes: The library.
A doorknob at Ravenswood Historic home
One of the late resident's dresses. Ravenswood is still in the same family it was built by- AMAZING considering very few remain that way.
Yes, ghost hunters LOVE historic homes. Ravenswood is no different.

The Jesse James Farm & Museum near Kearney, MO

What I paid for tour: $10*

Jesse James Farm & Museum
Fact: Jesse James was a good boy, who stayed out of the gang, until the corrupted law killed his family.
Where Jesse James was born, his childhood home.

The Battle of Lexington State Historic Site in Lexington, MO

What I paid for tour: $6*

The Battle of Lexington's Anderson House, which served as a hospital during the Civil War
The Battle of Lexington State Historic Site's Anderson House

Ha Ha Tonka State Park near Camdenton, MO

It is FREE to visit this site!!!

Snyder's castle in Ha Ha Tonka S.P. seems to have been cursed. Robert Snyder began construction in 1905, died in 1906 before it was completed, his sons finished it finally in 1922, but it burned down only 20 years later in 1942....Today the stone remains as a likeness to castle ruins.
Snyder Castle Ruins in Ha Ha Tonka State Park

Pertle Springs in Warrensburg, MO

It’s FREE to visit this site!

While walking on the trails of University of Central Missouri's Pertl Springs Park this is what you see most of the time...but if you look harder you will find... (see next picture)
....In Pertle Springs you will find the ruins of what was once a grand resort, where hundreds flocked to drink the mineral waters of the natural spring and relax in a hotel or cabin, see the caged bear and other animals, or ride the trolley that ran on tracks from downtown Warrensburg to the Pertle Springs resort...

 

*Please note that while I visited all of these sites within the past 2 years, prices are subject to change- Please contact these places prior to leaving if you need to know exactly how much it will cost.

Day 29: Signs and Oil Changes

Now that I was back at home, it was time to change the oil. I am picky about what kind of oil I use, and I only use Castrol oil. I suppose everyone has their preference, but Castrol seems to be the best quality oil for the money that you can get. In the past, when changing the oil in my Dodge Stealth long before I owned my Jeep, I could note a marked difference in the way my car ran when I used anything less (for example, Pennzoil) than Castrol. Since then I have stuck with it…and since most oil change places use Pennzoil standard I have a hard time breaking down and letting someone else change my oil. I want to know exactly what goes into my vehicle…and honestly, it’s best for you to know how to do minor things to your vehicle on your own. With my Jeep, I have no excuse not to change my own oil- I don’t even have to drive up on ramps. I just crawl under the vehicle (something any caver has no problem accomplishing) and drain the oil, take off the oil filter, replace the plug and new oil filter, and refill the oil. It honestly takes less than 10 minutes once you have the process down.
Driving was something that provided me with freedom when I first turned 16. I lived in the country, miles from the nearest town, so driving was a way for me to start seeing the world. I have loved cars, and driving, ever since. It’s probably why I can handle being on the road for so many hours. I have had many of my friends, after driving for a short trip, comment on how insane I must be to drive so far, and for so long, this summer.
I’ll admit that driving for long distances can get tiring, even though I enjoy doing so. As a matter of safety I find things to keep myself actively engaged in driving (I advise this to anyone that is getting ready to drive long distances). One of my vises, among many, is to take note of signs that I consider unusual, or out of my oridinary routine. Here’s a collection of some of the signs I have seen thus far on the trip.
Each of them is foreign to me, but they might be domestic to you. Eventually I will have enough signs in my collection that very few will surprise me anymore. Here’s to the next sign that will tell us what to do….or in some cases, what to ignore!

-Nicole

Lousiana. For the Love of All that is Holy, Please, don't feed your children to the alligator.
Alabama- Little known fact: Dunes are more than sand, they are held together by plants with long roots, such as the sea oat.
South Carolina- I'm not sure if this is religious paraphenalia (probably) or a joke about being in the middle of no where. I don't believe it's possible to be lost, though... You can always find your way by retracing your steps.
South Carolina- This sign seems fairly straight forward...but what is hiding beneath the glare reveals an unfortunate, but necessary, truth (see the next picture)
Yes, No Fun Allowed...Live Free or Die, I agree...yet for a majority of the population playing on the rocks is deadly sicne they don't have the physical experience to navigate safely, and conservationally.
This sign isn't uncommon. In fact, it's universal. I have yet to drive through a single state that didn't have at least one of these.....
Massachusetts- Hair Pin curve. Straight out of the movies....or sports care commercial
New York-Bear Xing. The first of it's kind that I have taken note of.
Niagara Falls, Ontario-I would say they added the image to reiterate how dangerous the waterfall is incase the reader didn't understand English......but I'm seriously wondering how many people out there would not understand how dangerous this is.
Columbus, OH- I am seriously doubting whether this is an informative sign...or a warning. No one messes with the Mob...
Ohio- Basically, only bring yourself. In fact, you may need to leave your clothes behind... ha ha!

Day 28: Driving Home to MO for a few days

It’s hard to believe that today marks the end of the 4th week on the road. I’ve been to 24 states so far, covered over 7000 miles, and I’ve been to 8 caves in various area of the country. Each place had it’s own flavor, and since I pride myself in trying new things everywhere I go I have been able to enjoy something unique.
Driving home today is going to be a bit of a treat. I would say I am going to spend these few days relaxing, but the truth is I have a lot of things to catch up on, clean, and friends who have some amazing plans to keep me busy this week. While being on the road is great, and I pride myself in enjoying my time alone, loneliness does eventually start to creep up on me. After a month of being in strange places it will feel nice to be in familiar territory.
Following is a collection of different food and drink items I have tried throughout my trip thus far. Feel free to ask about any of them, or give your own input. I love hearing from my readers!
I’ll see you here tomorrow and the next few days, when I will be sharing some of the awesome things my home state of Missouri has to offer.
Enjoy!
Nicole

Kentucky Bourbon Barrel Ale In Lexington, KY
Ale81. Tastes similar to ginger ale. Lexington, KY.
Ski. From Kentucky. Citrus soda, a lot like Squirt, minus the bite of grapefruit.
Kentucky Fried Chicken. Not from the colonel, but probably better....especially when served with black cherry preserves & biscuits.
Thai Orchid Cafe's Peanut chicken. Their own recipe...and tasty! Lexington, KY.
Dos Equis. Not unique, I drink it all the time...probably because I'm trying to be the "Most Interesting (Wo)Man in the World". (I had this in Arkansas with my friend, her husband, and neighbors)
Mint Juleps at Oak Alley. Something everyone has to try once. Louisiana.
Fried catfish and crawfish, creole style. Louisiana.
Abita restoration ale- helping restore New Orleans.
Beignets from Cafe Du Monde. If you go to NOLA without having an order of these, you fail. It's tradition.
Crawfish tails and veggies, cooked at camp in Alabama.
Datz. A Tampa, Florida cafe with GIANT coffee drinks. Dime for size reference.
Fresh made chocolates from St. Augustine, Florida's Whetstone Chocolates
Pecan-encrusted fresh fish. Savannah, GA. Mmmm
The Savannah Bee Company. I'm sure many of you have been to a wine tasting....how about a honey tasting? I have.
First-of-Season Georgia peaches. You can only get these in GA at local fruit stands.
A heritage tomatoe. Purchased in Virginia, originating from a hot house in Canada. Hmmm...
Dominion Root beer. Viriginia. Made wit real honey...and real tasty!
Peanut Butter Confetti Cookies. You can only get these if you know my friend...she makes lots of cookies, and delicious cookies.
Creme Brulee from Pier 77 in Maine.
You can't say you've had lobster until you've had lobster in Maine. For me this is true because this is the first time I've ever had lobster.

Day 27: Mammoth Cave National Park, The Grand Avenue Tour

The damp, earthy smell. The cool, slow moving air. The lights struggling, and failing, to reach into all corners of this limestone underworld. Caves are familiar territory, it feels like home. The tour guide giving the stereotypical “Do Not Touch” speech, the explanation of the twilight zone, a touch rock to “get it out of your system”, and the story of how the cave was discovered. All of these things are in a cave tour, uniting all the caves into a broad category. One of my favorite parts is when the tour guide shows all the visitors what the “Natural Cave Light” looks like, when people gaspy and children hold on tightly to their parents.
To the untrained eye, all caves are the same. They are all damp, dark environments that descend into the Earth’s depths. Of course they all have similarities, they are all called caves for a reason, but every cave is different. They have different levels of speleothem development, different types of passages, different types of limestone or dolomite, and more. Even within the same cave there can be several different broad categories of passageway, and Mammoth Cave is a great example of this.
Mammoth Cave’s passages can be divided into three main types: The large, oval shaped passages developed in the phreatic zone, the large, more angular passages developed in the vadose zone, and the tall, canyon-like passages developed during times of fast-flowing water, often confined by natural jointing in the limestone. On the Grand Avenue tour of the Mammoth Cave you get to see all three.

Gypsum flowers in Mammoth Cave, in one of the vadose-zone developed passages. June 4, 2011

One thing I had read about, and have studied pictures and specimens of, but never seen in person were gypsum flowers. These crystals “grew” abundantly in the passages that develop in the phreatic zone (The phreatic zone is termed the “unsaturated” zone, the area of the cave that was developed with some airspace still present. These passages tend to have rougher edges, since the water cut downwards as it flowed through these passages). Gypsum crystals, and their more ornate, developed flowers, form best in dry areas of the cave. The passages formed in the phreatic are usually perfect for this, since the water has, over time, found a new passageway deep beneath this one and left it “high and dry”. The crystals grow relatively fast (geologically speaking), as I saw many instances where someone had carved their name into the cave ceiling and the crystals have begun to grow in these cracks, the former graffiti artist’s name forever in the cave as the crystals adorn the scrawl.

Gypsum crystals depositing in the crevices of someone's name. June 4, 2011 in Mammoth Cave.

The snowball dining room in Mammoth Cave actually has a cafeteria, where people are encouraged to buy (overpriced) lunches to fuel them for the rest of the journey. The snowball dining room is so named because it has gypsum growing in “balls” on the ceilings and walls, making it look like someone has thrown snowballs around in the room. The bathrooms in here use artificial walls, but a natural cave ceiling that just happened to be the perfect height tops off the room.

The bathrooms, deep within the cave, in the snowball dining room of Mammoth Cave, Kentucky.

The next area you will travel through on the Grand Avenue tour are narrow, tall, winding passages that make you feel like you are wandering around the bottom of a steep canyon. The area, much like the rest of Mammoth Cave, doesn’t have a whole lot of speleothem development. It does have a few areas where water is flowing, and a deposit called Martha’s Vineyard, and a few stalactities and flowstone. For the most part, this area is dry.

Martha's Vineyard in Mammoth Cave. June 4, 2011

After the canyon-like passages you will entire an area that is very similar to the Mammoth Passages tour: The big, rounded, open passageways that were formed in the phreatic zone (the phreatic zone is that which is completely underwater, and the passageways indicate this by the way they are rounded, oval shaped- showing that the entire passageway was smoothed by water erosion from top to bottom).
At the very end of the 4.5 hour tour, which gives you a very good workout as you climb up and down hundreds of stairs and steep hills, you enter one of the areas that is rare in the Mammoth Cave system: The well-developed speleothems. This area of the cave is located against a valley, where the sandstone cap is no longer present since it was taken away by erosion. This allows more water to percolate through the limestone, saturated with dissolved calcite, and redepositing on the ceilings, walls and floors.

Mammoth Cave Speleothems on the Grand Avenue tour. June 4, 2011

The Mammoth Cave Grand Avenue tour ends by exiting through a revolving door, used to help preserve the high humidity that is present in this last portion of the cave. While you have just spent 4.5 hours underground, it is hard to believe you have only seen a very small percentage of the cave. There are hundreds of miles of passageway closed to the public, and perhaps even more miles that have yet to be discovered.

The revolving humidity lock door at Mammoth Cave, Kentucky. June 4, 2011

Caves are the ultimate “last frontier”, one of the few places on Earth that have yet to be discovered in whole. Each one of these is unique, and you never know what you are going to discover. I intend to collect as much cave experience as possible, which means checking on cave off my list at a time. Everytime I enter a cave I learn something new about them, see something I have never seen specifically before. The subtle differences are beginning to be more stark to my ever-training eye. I can’t wait to see more.
Tomorrow I head back home for a few days, then I will be heading on my Western loop. I can’t wait to see what the caves of the West have to offer me. I have been to 8 caves thus far on this trip…and I have many more planned, and probably many more unplanned, to visit.
Stay tuned!
Nicole

Stylolites in the phreatic-developed passageway. Mammoth Cave, Kentucky June 4, 2011
Carbon-covere gypsum crystals in the snowball dining room of Mammoth Cave. June 4, 2011
My Mammoth Cave National Park campsite. June 4, 2011

Day 26: University of Kentucky and Mammoth Cave National Park’s Mammoth Passages Tour

All over the world children watch their Disney movies and visions of theme parks dance in their heads. Bicyclers dream of the Tour de France, gamblers dream of Las Vegas, and mountain climbers dream of Mount Everest. Mammoth Cave of Kentucky is a lot like the Disney World of the caver. The longest cave in the world, and numerous books and stories of the exploration of the never-ending Mammoth Caverns has kept many cavers dreaming of the underworld.
Today I awoke in Lexington, Kentucky to tour the University of Kentucky, my 3rd stop in my list of potential graduate schools to visit. The University is conveniently located in the midst of Kentucky karst, the library (which holds the record for the largest book endowment of all public universities in the nation) even sits atop two sinkholes which required special foundation design so that it could achieve the feat. The U of K seems to be the perfect size: being both large enough to offer ample facilities (and has a growing geology department), yet small enough that the graduate program still affords a family-like atmosphere. Everyone was friendly, and caving is a serious sport in the area.

The University of Kentucky. June 3, 2011

I ate dinner the night before at Thai Orchid Cafe, where I enjoyed some very yummy peanut chicken. I chose the restaurant because of it’s decoration: orchids galore. It made me feel a little homesick for my own orchids that I have left in the care of my loving sister back home in Missouri. I enjoyed lunch today with some of the geology graduate students where I was able to get a true sense of what the campus was like, and tips on what to look for when seeking a graduate school. I love this opportunity because it gives me the chance to find out what graduate students wish they knew before they entered graduate school and gives me a lot to think about. All in all, I loved the University of Kentucky. Even the quirky robots that make deliveries in the medical building, where the cafeteria is located.

The Univerisity of Kentucky delivery robot. June 3, 2011

After my pleasant visit with the University of Kentucky I headed towards my theme park: The Mammoth Cave National Park. It was a palatable drive from Lexington, and has some great camping facilities (even if you do have to use those silly little tokens to take a shower, each token costs about $2.50 and lasts 10 minutes). The camp store is well stocked, both with products and helpful staff, and located a short walk from the camp. Everything is located within a short walk from the campsite. In fact, once I parked my Jeep at the campsite when I arrived, it didn’t move until two days later when I left the area.

The Mammoth Cave National Park camp store's new sign. June 3, 2011

Arriving later in the afternoon, I had time to take a shorter tour and, planning on taking the long tour the next day that encompassed almost every other tour (exempting the Wild cave tour) I was left with the Mammoth Passages tour. The tour enters through a natural entrance (a short walk from the visitor center, which for me included an encounter with a 2′ copperhead that decided to wander into the trail. The guide expertly kept the snake to the side with his hat after I pointed the snake out, and had everyone walk around before allowing the snake to continue across the walking path).

Looking back out the natural entrance of Mammoth Passages tour at Mammoth Cave National Park in Kentucky. June 3, 2011

The Mammoth Passages tour shows you what a majority of the longest cave in the world looks like: Huge, oval shaped passages with no speleothem development. The caves were named for this feature, having passages of an abnormally large size. While the cave is lacking in speleothem development, it makes up for in size many times over. It was used, as many caves are, by the natives between 4000 and 2000 years ago, when they left moccasins and other indications of human activity. Later the cave was used as a Salt-Petre mine during the war of 1812, over 400,000 lbs of calcium nitrate being extracted from the cave. After the war it had many uses such as a tuberculosis quarantine area, a church, a mushroom farm, and of course tourism, of which it is still used for today.

Moccasins in the Mammoth Passages tour of Mammoth Cave. Kentucky, June 3, 2011

I found the tour guide, as with most of the National Park run caves, to be very informative and fairly accurate in their description of the geology and the history. The kind of tour I appreciate, not only for my own knowledge, but for the education of the general public who are often mislead by private cave tour guides who are encouraged to elaborate upon their stories. My guide today was wonderful, a man who only works during the summer as he is retired.

The black cherry preserves and biscuits at Mammoth Cave Hotel Restaurant. June 3, 2011

Afterward I enjoyed a fried chicken dinner (it seemed appropriate for Kentucky) at the Mammoth Cave Hotel Restaurant, which included biscuits with black cherry preserves. Everything was wonderful, the biscuits with preserves so exceptionally good that I could have made a meal out of them alone. The prices weren’t bad either, comparable to your local Applebees price point. The campsite was large and amenable, and everyone I met on staff was helpful and friendly.

Shower tokens at Mammoth Cave N.P. June 3, 2011

Tomorrow I will be spending more time in my “Disney Land”. While I do prefer to focus on speleothem development and this cave has very little it is certainly a big playground for the caver side of me. Besides, it is important to understand what features cause a cavern to lack speleothem development to further the understanding of what causes speleothem density in other caverns.
Tomorrow I will be hiking for 4.5 hours, underground, on the Grand Avenue tour that takes me through 4 miles of underground bliss, and shows me the three different “faces” that Mammoth Cave has to offer. I’ll let you know how it went tomorrow.
Until then-
Nicole

Mammoth Passages tour entrance. Mammoth Cave N.P. June 3, 2011
Mammoth Cave has been a tourist destination for over a hundred years, this train used to transport guests. June 3, 2011
Thai Orchid Cafe in Lexington, KY. I ate there June 2, 2011.

Day 25: Squire Boone Caverns (Mauckport, IN) and Rising Park (Lancaster, OH)

“We’re only human”
Such a funny statement. So many of us struggle to attain near-perfection. We want to be the best at what we do, have the greatest impact, and show that we are above the animal that we once were. Being human means we feel the need to try harder than any other creature. Like we have some sort of hierarchical need to take care of everyone, and everything, around us. We view ourselves as superior, the keepers of the planet. So why is it that when we make mistakes we make that claim: “We’re only human”.
The society we have today, the way we view ourselves as the superior animal, isn’t something that you can define. Our ideals of this being is fluid, and we often make mistakes in the past. It is a lack of knowledge, or sometimes simple ignorance, that causes us to make these mistakes. We can often find mistakes we have made in nature, causing a ripple effect that will take a millenia to still in the waters of our environment. Today I experienced two examples of these, and also a prime of example of what makes us humans so superior. It isn’t because of what we are- it is because we are constantly evolving at a rate much faster than any other member of the animal kingdom.

The view from the sandstone bluffs of Rising Park. June 2, 2011

This morning my friend decided to take me to Rising Park in Lancaster, Ohio before I continued my journey westward. The park was the gift of a self-made successful business man, Philip Rising, and his wife when they donated the land to the city in 1908. It contains the sandstone bluffs, known as Mount Pleasant today, but known as Standing Stone by early natives. The park contains a lake, many picnic shelters, and a nice hiking trail that leads to the top of the sandstone bluff, which affords a great view of the entire city and the lands of Ohio beyond.

A human-numb deer in Rising Park of Lancaster, OH. June 2, 2011

While hiking there a deer walked out in front of us, barely 20 feet away, clearly unafraid of humans. While this land, prior to the park’s development, had probably been a place of wilderness, today people and animals have meshed together a little too closely. It is unfortunate that animals in such situations become so dangerously used to people at the cost of our development. The park is beautiful and was meant to give us a closer view of nature, but you can never experience nature when you pave the walkways and put down solid stone benches. In changing the landscape for the average person to experience the outdoors you create a world that is a sort of hybrid- a place where deer don’t run and sandstone cliffs are marred from railings.

One of the Benches chisled of rock for Rising Park in Lancaster, OH. June 2, 2011

This isn’t to say that the park isn’t beneficial: It offers a great place for people to get outdoors and enjoy some healthy activities. It is just an example of how humans as a population can change the world so easily. We have made ourselves the architects of the earth, and we have remodeled the world to fit our needs.

A picnic shelter in Rising Park in Lancaster, OH. June 2, 2011

One of the prime examples of unintentional human tampering with nature exists in commercial caves. In the early times of cave tourism we did things unthinkable today: We touched, we broke, we threw coins in pools of water. These are the more obvious calamities, something that we quickly realized was detrimental as we watched the cave slowly lose it’s grandeur. Some of the less obvious effect we have on commercial caves: Loss of humidity due to artificial openings, moss and mold growth due to artificial lights, and a raise in the temperature simply by touring the caverns.
Squire Boone Caverns is a prime example of how humanity has evolved, from a time where the cave was slowly being destroyed to a time where the cave is starting to restore itself. We have evolved our role on the earth to a conscious effort to not only halt the impact we have, but reverse it. It is remarkable to see changes take place in an area that takes geologic time to develop.
Located in near Maukport, IN, Squire Boone Caverns is a beautiful cave on land that was once owned by Daniel Boone’s brother, Squire. It was discovered when they were hiding from indians in the late 1700’s, and Squire Boone still rests within the caverns after his death in 1815. The property also contains a grist mill and many shops selling handmade products such as soaps, baked goods and candles.

Squire Boone Caverns. June 2, 2011

Squire Boone caverns is blessed with a caver as a maintenance man, and he has prided himself in the last 8 years with restoring the cave to it’s original glory. He has installed humidity lock doors, has rewired all the lighting so that it is turned off after each tour goes through, and makes a concentrated effort to remove all moss and other bacteria that have been introduced into the cave as a result of careless tourism.

The largest growing rimstone dams, in Squire Boone Cavers, Indiana. June 2, 2011

Although we should, as humans, feel the need to care and restore all natural gems of the underworld, Squire Boone Caverns contains a particularly beautiful cave deposit that is well worth our attention in protecting. It contains the largest, still growing rimstone dam in the country. The speleothem deveopment is fairly advanced, and many of them that show past stress from loss of humidity (and thus loss of deposition) are showing a renewed water flow that should, over hundereds of years, begin the cave’s sculpture building again.
Humanity is an idea that has constantly been evolving. We once viewed ourselves as the owners of the Earth, and it was our job to conquer and dominate everything it had to offer. Luckily, the gift of being human is also to acknowledge mistakes. Many of us are beginning to realize our skills are better used to be caretakers of the Earth, here to reduce the impact that other, less educated members of our society provide.
We have all made mistakes, but the part that makes us who we are is the fact that we can recognize those and correct them in the future. We may have almost destroyed some things, and fully destroyed others, but we can fix that. After all, “We’re only human”.

The lake at Rising Park in Lancaster, OH. June 2, 2011
Squire Boone Caverns June 2, 2011
Squire Boone Caverns in Indiana. June 2, 2011. Some "squiggly" flowstone.
Squire Boone Caverns in Indiana. June 2, 2011
The spiral staircase leading down the artificial hole drilled for tourism in Squire Boone Caverns. Today it is also a humidity lock area. June 2, 2011
Deposits in Squire Boone Caverns, Indiana, June 2, 2011

Day 24: Columbus, Ohio-The Zoo, Ohio State & The Big Bang Piano Bar

“A Drinking Town With a Sports Problem”
This is the description offered to me by my friend of the hometown of Ohio State University. When many people think of destinations for travel, the midwestern states, including Ohio, just doesn’t top many minds- but the state is full of things to do and places to see. Ohio may not be a vacation spot, but the locals are loyal to their homestate to a fault. You won’t find a more enthusiatic sports fan than that of the Buckeyes.

One of the gorillas at the Columbus Zoo. June 1, 2011

The first stop in Columbus was the Columbus Zoo, a well-acclaimed zoo known across the country for its accomplishments. It is home to Colo, the world’s first gorilla born in captivity. The zoo’s residents are varied and numerous, and I even saw a few animals I had never heard of before, including the Okapi. A relative of the giraffe, the Okapi looks like a zebra mated with a horse that mated with a giraffe that inherited big ears from a rabbit ancester. Seriously weird, but cool, animals. We observed a mob of kangaroos, and decided it was time to get out of there before they pulled their guns on us. Time to head to Ohio State University.

An Okapi at the Columbus Zoo. June 1, 2011

Ohio State university is the school of my friend, and is not an option on my grad school list. It is well worth visiting, though, as the reputation of Buckeye sports penetrates the entire country. Successful in almost every sport, this school bleeds team colors. We were lucky and someone had left the gate to the football stadium open, and we wandered down next to the same path the players use every home game to make their entrance to the field. A visit to mirror lake on campus was a must- a place where the students ritually jump into the water, regardless of the weather, before a game against their rivals for good luck.

Inside Ohio State Stadium. June 1, 2011
Mirror Lake on Ohio State Campus. June 1, 2011

At the end of the night we headed down to the arena district, to enjoy the musical talents of the Big Bang. The artists at the Big Bang are excellent, able to play songs at the request of the audience without music sheets. You can check them out on The Big Bang’s website, and locate a bar near you. They play requests and are the type of starving musicians that need tips- don’t forget to tip your pianist!

Big Bang piano Bar in Columbus, Ohio. June 1, 2011

Ohio has something to teach everyone about loyalty. From the state nickname to the name of the gorilla born in 1956, Ohio believes in itself and what it has to offer to the world. It is a true example of what self confidence can do for a person, or even a team, because they have been successful many times over. Loyalty, through thick and thin, pay off in the long run. Make like Ohio, find what you believe in, and NEVER let go.

A big cat at the Columbus Zoo. June 1, 2011
Penguins at the Columbus Zoo. June 1, 2011
A tropical fish at the Columbus Zoo. June 1, 2011

 

Flamingo at the Columbus OH Zoo. June 1, 2011
The ducks of Ohio State's Mirror Lake
The Ohio State Stadium. June 1, 2011