Day 22: Niagara Falls, Ontario

Blue. It’s a color that many of us love. To those who know me, it is almost more of an obsession. How many of you have heard me make remarks about that beautiful shade of cerulean blue? Or watch me eat my blue M&Ms last so that I can enjoy looking at them the longest? Are you one of the dozens of people who have remarked to me how often I wear the color?
The color is something that evokes an emotion in me. The emotion produced by looking at the color is what I crave. Blue is a peaceful color, something tranquil and relaxing. It makes you feel as if you are laying in the sahde on a cool, tropical beach. The same feeling of love that many of us are struck with as we gave upon a waterfall, negative ions swirling in the misty air. The color blue and Niagara Falls have something in common: They create a calm, tranquil, loving environment for us to bathe in, truly soaking in all the goodness of life.

Niagara Falls- Horseshow Falls from the top. May 30, 2011

Niagara Falls actually consists of two falls, the American Falls state-side, and Horseshoe falls on the Canadian side. Located on it’s namesake river, more than 4 million cubic feet of water per minute crashing to the bottom of the falls. The area I was closer to, staying on the Canadian side, was the 173 foot tall Horseshoe Falls. It was during high flow season, and the rate had increased to around 6 million cubic feet of water per minute and the mist was thick. I couldn’t get a clear picture of the falls at all.

One of the tourist attractions, Maid of the Mist, where you can get in a boat and get soaking wet as it chugs it's way as close to the falls as it can. May 30, 2011

The geology of the falls is something temporary, and in the terms of geologic time, very short lived. It is currently eroding the top layer of limestone/dolostone at a rate of ONE FOOT per year! It is a remarkable rate that puts the Niagara Falls extinction at only 50,000 years from today. Only 11,000 years ago the falls were located about 7 miles to the North of it’s present location, but the water tapped into a portion of non-resistant soils and rock, causing it to retreat quickly (in days or hours, even!), forming the “Whirlpool” you can visit downstream today.

The Niagara Falls "whirlpool"...I don't think you get the scale, let me post another picture.
So, here it is zoomed in a bit. Do you see the people down there yet? No? Ok...let's zoom in again (Click on photos to see in original size)
Zoomed in as much as I can with my stock lens. Yes, there are people down there. They are just TINY!~

Today Niagara Falls is a HUGE tourist destination, and as such the prices of dining and tourism have risen dramatically. Parking is a full $20 (although they like to note that you can “come and leave all you want…for this day only…ha ha.), the tours are short and cost betwee 15 and 20 dollars, and the food is slightly pricier than normal restaurant prices. I decided that I didn’t feel like getting wet as I was already feeling a little cool because of the mist, so I decided to watch “Niagara’s Fury- A 4D experience”. It only lasted a little over 20 minutes, and although the “4D” effects of a moving floor, snowfall and water spray were interesting, it wasn’t informative enough nor impressive enough  to be deserving of the $17.36 I had to pay.

I would say that you can certainaly make your Niagara Falls trip less expensive if you have more time to see everything. If you bike or hike from a nearby campsite or inexpensive hotel to the Falls you save $20, and there are several inexpensive grocery stores nearby (I went to a local grocery called “No Frills” and I was able to purchase two lunches and two dinners, with drinks, for under $12).

A Niagara Falls rainbow. May 30, 2011

The water wasn’t only at it’s high point while I was there- it was overunning the place. I was the only person crazy enough at my KOA campsite to *attempt* to sleep in a tent. I arrived at my campsite the evening before to a muddy mess, but managed to find a damp spot that my tent would have been ok on- If a severe thunderstorm hadn’t decided to roll through. The entire campsite turned into a wetland, and I had to evacuate my $9.98 tent to my Jeep. I paid for two nights worth of camping to sleep in my Jeep, but hey, this trip isn’t always going to be perfect. It’s an adventure. The storm may have been strong, but I do enjoy a good thunder and lightening show.

The mud of my campsite. At least my Jeep enjoyed it. May 30, 2011 at Niagara Falls, ON, Canada KOA campground.

This wasn’t the first time my tent was in a severe thunderstorm. It has survived many nights and days in such storms, but it was the first time it leaked. I am more than happy with my tent’s performance, considering I bought it for $9.98 from my local Wal-Mart. I don’t think any tent could have survived while pitched in the middle of a mini lake.

The Niagara Falls color-changing night lightshow. May 30, 2011

At night Niagara Falls comes alive with a light show. This time of year (late spring to early summer) the mist is more dense because of the increased water flow so the show isn’t as pretty as it could be (although still enjoyable). If you want the full effect of the Niagara Falls experience I highly recommend coming in late summer or early fall.

The lights of the night at Niagara Falls. May 30, 2011
The Niagara Falls nightly firework show. May 30, 2011

I spent my night at the Falls watching the colored lights pour over the misty water of Niagara Falls, watching the people dancing in the grass to the live band, until the end of the firework show they put on everynight. It was a soothing night, listening to the falling water and feeling that cool mist breeze through the air. A refresher before another long day in my Jeep tomorrow as I drove back into the states to see another cave.

A Blue Niagara Falls. May 30, 2011

In case you were wondering, yes, as the lights changed there were times when the falls were all blue. In some cases, it even qualified as a shade of cerulean.
I’ll see everyone again when I report back state-side. Until then…
-Nicole

"Don't Jump In" is what the sign is telling you.....believe it or not, people actually do go over the Falls in barrels...even with the high fine for the violation. May 30, 2011
Horseshoe Falls- The water is just about to give in to gravity. May 30, 2011 in Niagara Falls, ON.
Yes, there are rainbows at Niagara Falls too! May 30, 2011
Standing in front of Niagara Falls, the American Falls in the background, in Canada. May 30, 2011
The night lights of Niagara Falls. May 30, 2011
Niagara's night lights. May 30, 2011
Live band and dancing audience at Niagara Falls. May 30, 2011

Day 21: Driving thru Canada to Niagara Falls

As I had described on Day 15, what I share with you is only a small portion of what I do in a day. Going to so many places, so far away, involves a lot of driving. Today was another one of those days where driving was the main attraction of the day. This isn’t to say that a day of driving is anything less than exciting- it is more of a series of evens rather than one main event. Little things that add up to one whole experience.

Canadian Gas Prices (in liters) May 29, 2011

Driving through Canada was certainly different. The first noticeable difference on the road in Canada is that everything is in Km instead of Miles. Armed with a Tom Tom GPS unit, this conversion is made with just a couple clicks of the button. Another difference hits you when you stop at the gas station. The sign, at first, looks appealing: Only $1.21 for gas!!!! However, the gas is sold in liters, not gallons, and while right now the Canadian and U.S. dollar are almost par, the Canadian dollar does hold a slightly higher value. I calculate my gas mileage at every gas stop to make sure my Jeep is runnnig smoothly. Try calculating your MPG when you have filled up in liters and driven so many Km. Wouldn’t the world be so much easier if we all used the simple, countable and easily convertible metric system? I think so….

Maple sugar candies. Best enjoyed from Canada, in Canada. May 29, 2011

When I travel I try my hardest to always eat and drink items that are not necessarily available at home. I look for the drinks I have never heard of, the foods that are unique, or sometimes the items that are available back home but are notorious in the area. The following is a collection of a few of the items I have found along my way that are unique to the areas I enjoyed them in.
What have you found on your travels to be unique? Are these certain items that, when you go to a particular state or country, are a must-eat or drink? I look forward to hearing from everyone.
-Nicole

I decided to try a new beer when I arrived at my campsite in Ontario, Canada May 29, 2011
A coconut hershey's chocolate bar in Canada. Notice that the product labeling is required by law to be in both English and French. May 29, 2011
I had never seen this candybar before. Ontario, Canada May 29, 2011
While this is available almost anywhere, it seems to be fitting to drink it while in the country of it's origin. May 29, 2011
Apparently Cadbury makes more than the easter creme eggs. ...Alcohol, huh? It was yummy.

Day 20: Ontario, Canada-Bonnechere Caves

When you are truly passionate about something people take notice. Everyone that you know, and some you don’t, supply you with more information about the subject of your heart and the knowledge and experience simply snowballs. A wonderful effect of passion, because each day brings something new. In planning my trip I decided a visit to my friends in Canada was a must on my schedule. Shortly after organizing the dates my friends told me of a place to visit that I simply couldn’t refuse. Nestled in the Ottawa Valley of Ontario laid in wait something I had yet to experience: My first Canadian cave.

The "Canadian Passport" mark. (lol)
Renfrew, Ontario's Historic Swinging Bridge (Restored in 1983). May 28, 2011

Canada is a whole new animal for me, and this was my first visit. I was very excited about earning another stamp in my passport, but was disappointed to find that they don’t stamp it when you are crossing via vehicle. The universe didn’t seem to think that was vefry fitting for my picture-taking, thoroughly documenting ways of travel and I heard a loud shot as something hit my windshield only a few miles past the border. Something had slammed into my windshield (that I just recently replaced this year, I might add) creating a rather remarkable shape: A double “C” on the passenger side. My Jeep had, rather unfortunately, been branded with my trip to Canada.

Odi's King Burgers in Renfrew, Ontario. May 28, 2011
Poutine and a cheeseburger from Odi's in Renfrew, Ontario. May 28, 2011

All four of us (or rather 3 and a half since one was an adorable 2 year old) then headed into town where I was to partake of some local cusine before we headed to the caves. We dined at Odi’s King Burger in Renfrew, enjoying some Poutine. Poutine is a french dish, consisting of french fries covered in gravy and cheese. If you ask me, I think it was like a fried version of mashed potatoes and gravy. Delicious.

The Bonnechere Caves of Ontario, Canada. May 28, 2011
The Bonnechere Caves. May 28, 2011 in Ontario.

Bonnechere Cave is located north of Algonquin park and is located in fossil-abundant Ordovician limestone. The cave consists of passages, with no large rooms to speak of, and has very little ornamentation. I would place the very sparse speleothem development at less than 1%. This is quite obviously due to the nature of the cave since it has been mostly filled with rushing water in recent geologic times. The limestone of the cave may be older than some, but the constant rushing water that filled the caverns did not allow redeposition to occur in any large manner. The cave passageways are incredibly interesting. They very methodically follow prominant jointing in the cave’s home formation. It seems to be located all within the same formation, the limestone being all of the same type, but I have yet to complete the research to know which limestone this is.

The roaring waters of Bonnechere River in Ontario. May 28, 2011

The Bonnechere river roars past the cave and into one of the natural entrances carved by melting glacial waters. The entrance is best viewed from the other side of the river, where you can stand on the remnants of an old bridge. The water was pretty high today, this area of Canada suffering from the same high waters that much of America is suffering from this Spring.

Teh Bonnechere River, and it's namesake Cave's entrance. May 28, 2011 in Ontario.

My visit to this area of Canada was fantastic, especially since I was able to spend it with such wonderful and accomodating friends. Spending time with them and their son reminded me again how precious spending time with friends can be. I loved every minute of it, and it even made me think a second about having kids of my own. The passion of cave geology calls, however….someday in the distant future I suppose. For right now I have many great friends with cute kids to play with and enjoy (then send them back to their parents when they get grumpy! Ha ha!~)
Tomorrow I was to head off on my own again. I was going to miss spending time with my friends, but I had something pretty majestic to ease the pain: Niagara Falls. I’ll see you there, if I survive the barrel drop (j/k).
-Nicole

The Bonnechere River, rushing past the wild, abundantly blooming lilac bushes of Ontario. May 28, 2011
Some of the proliferous fossils that adorn Bonnechere Caves in Ontario. May 28, 2011
Could it be...cephalapoda? Why are you in the Bonnechere Caves? Oh...it's Ordovician? Of course you would hang out here. May 28, 2011
Some of the very sparse speleothem development present in Bonnechere. I have seen these many times, and I have named them "lizard backs". May 28, 2011 Ontario, Canada.
Emerging from the Bonnechere Caves to the trail. May 28, 2011 Ontario

Day 19: The Remington Museum in Ogdensburg, NY

The old American West was a time, and a culture, in itself. A tumultuos time where your next dinner depended on your hunting abilities, and natives were in tense relationship with the cowboys and pioneers invading their lands. Today the world is small. We are interconnected with technology and an unknown land is no where to be found. There is no new frontier to conquer, as far as morals and top-side land is concerned, so it can be difficult for us to understand what this time was like. Luckily that time was documented well by the artwork of Frederic Remington, famous sculptor, painter and writer who was passionate about capturing the life of this time.

Remington's "Coming through the Rye" bronze, no. 15. 1902. Ogdensburg, NY May 27, 2011

The Remington Museum sits in Ogdensburg, NY. A small city, port to Ontario, it happily claims itself to be the home of Frederic Remington. His career began as an illustrator for Harpers, and as he became notorious for his work many sought him out to freeze these moments in time forever. As time went by he desired a more artistic venue, and he began painting and sculpting some of the most famous works portraying the American West.

The detail of one of Remington's bronze scupltures. May 27, 2011

His attention to detail is exquisite, especially notable in his bronze sculptures that would have delicate bridles and ropes adorning the sculpture. Every sculpture of Remington is dynamic, capturing a moment in time that was in action or full of emotion. My favorite painting (top) has to be “The End of the Day”. The blue color used for the snow really does capture how cold it was outside as the logger returned home for the evening. My favorite sculpture of his would be “Mountain Man”, an image of a man riding his horse down a steep grade.

Remington's "The Mountain Man" Cast No. 54 July 1903. Remington Art Museum Ogdensburg, NY May 27, 2011

Along with displays of originals of his work, and some artwork by other artists that Remington had collected, the house itself is remarkable. The Parish Mansion, home of the Remington museum, was built in 1809. Recently renovated, Remington’s wife, Eva, moved into the home in 1915. When she passed away she left her late husband’s art and collections in a will to form the museum.

Frederic Remington's "The Last March" 1906 oil on canvas. The Remington Art Museum in Ogdensburg, NY May 27, 2011

While Remington’s finished works are the main attraction of the museum, I have always found the sketches and unfinished works to be more interesting. It shows the raw image that the artist had in his mind and often conveys a more dramatic idea of what he wanted to attain in the finished work.

Remington's unfinished painting, "Ghost Stories".

While the museum was beautiful, it was time for me to make like the Wild West and countinue my wagon trail northward. Tonight I headed into Ontario, Canada to visit some friends and, of course, a cave. In a way a Jeep is the modern covered wagon, the adventurous way to go anywhere and pioneer forwards.
I’ll see you at the end of my next trail.
-Nicole

Stairs in the Parish Mansion, home of the Frederic Remington Art Museum in Ogdensburg, NY. May 27, 2011

The First Stamp: Journey from the U.S. to Costa Rica

Much like a 6 year old on the night of Christmas Eve, I couldn’t manage to get a full night’s sleep. Traveling had become something of a drug that I needed in regular doses, and today was the day I stepped up to the more addictive substance:  My first stamp in my crisp, new passport. This comes as a surprise to most who know me, since I spend so much time going on adventures throughout the states, always with a good story to return with and hundreds of pictures. I have also always prided myself on the quest of knowledge, and I knew a lot about life in the world outside the U.S. borders- but only from books. I have friends who reside in all corners of the globe. I plaster my walls with maps of the world, and geologic maps of caves from just about everywhere. Yet here I was, up hours before my alarm sounded, wonders of international travel flashing through my head.

I arrived at the airport several hours earlier than necessary and checked my duffel bag. I had chosen to fly with Frontier Airlines for the first time, carefully avoiding anything tied to Continental Airlines (A story many of you know from my trip to Baltimore, MD in March of this year. ) Turns out I had made an excellent choice: Frontier is tied to Midwest Airlines, and that means warm chocolate chip cookies in flight, comfortable seating, and dependable service, all wrapped into a value priced fare. I flew to the Denver airport for a 6 hour layover, where I had the best chili I have ever tasted (A green pork chili). I spent a few hours exploring every corner of the airport looking for a unique tornado shelter sign that a friend had informed me to look for. I never did find that sign, but I can now tell you where every gate and restaurant is in the Denver International Airport. I rode the subway that goes between terminals for several loops, trying to discern the design behind the fans in the tunnels….a producer of electricity, perhaps?

The Denver Airport subway between terminals

My flight out of Denver left at midnight: I was taking the red eye flight to San Jose to meet up with the Wilsey’s on Friday morning. This made three  ”flight firsts” for me: My first flight with Frontier, my first international flight, and my first red eye flight. My seat was an aisle seat, but I was too exhausted to even care about the chocolate chip cookies being doled out among the passengers. I put my orange, Jeep-branded backpack on my lap, used it as an awkward pillow and dozed in and out of sleep.

August 6, 2010

Arriving in Costa Rica was a little surreal. It wasn’t  hitting me that I was in a different country: in a new place that didn’t speak English as a first language. Almost everyone at the airport spoke English very well. I made my way through customs and this was the moment I was waiting for: The first stamp in my passport. It sits there now on the first page, a faded-red stamp proclaiming that my first step outside of the U.S. (aside from Mexico and the Caribbean) was Costa Rica on August 6th, 2010. I exchanged my U.S. Dollars at the counter for the Costa Rican currency: Colones. The bills come in denominations that I was sure to be confused by (despite the conversions in the mini-reference book I created pre-trip) In the U.S. we have dollars and cents. In Costa Rica there are only Colones. This means that approximately 520 Colones equals 1 U.S. Dollar. A bill of 10,000 Colones is equal to approximately $20.

I was right in my theory that I would make a mistake in Colone conversion with the very first purchase I made: The Taxi ride from the Airport to Adventure Inn, where I would meet with my friend and her family so we could head down to Manzanillo in the far southeast of the country.  When I arrived at Adventure Inn the taxi driver gave me the total in U.S. dollars, knowing where I was from after our short conversation on the drive to the hotel. Having just exchanged all my U.S. dollars for Colones, I did what I thought was some quick math and handed him a colorful bill.

Lucky for me, he was a lot like everyone else I tend to meet on my adventures: The Oklahomans who pushed me out of the ditch when I slid off the road into 6 inches of snow and ice (Dec 26, 2009), the citizens of El Paso who helped me get two new tires and a new wheel (Dec 28, 2009), and even the helpful waitress at Iron Horse Café in small town Roscoe MO who introduced us to a local cave/landowner (and a subsequent obsession with caves that will never be satisfied). The taxi driver corrected my taboo and handed me back the extra money I had handed him by mistake. The good will of the world around never ceases to surprise me despite how many times I have experienced in it. I still smile every time, genuinely touched that there are so many people out there that are still honest and caring.

I joined my friend and her family at the breakfast table. There were many fruits I didn’t recognize, and one I was happy to see: Star fruit. Since a kid I have always loved this fruit, probably more because of the shape when sliced than the pleasantm citurs taste. Here in Costa Rica the fruit was offered on the plate like it was a regular garnish- the equivalent to lettuce in the U.S. I was going to like this country.

Driving through San Jose

Many of us take the public roadway infrastructure of the United States for granted. In the U.S. all roads have signs. They are even color-coded to designate whether the road is an interstate, state, or county highway. In San Jose you are lucky to find a sign, and the locals give directions in terms of houses, churches, rocks and trees. Loaded into the rental SUV we wandered the streets of San Jose. We started singing the song “Do you know the way through San Jose”. The song suddenly had a whole new meaning.

A local beer along the winding path to the Caribbean coast of Costa Rica

After our long journey of twisting and turning through San Jose we finally arrived on 32 highway and we twisted and turned through the beautiful Parque Nacional Braulio Carrillo. Huge yellow and blue butterflies flitted through the air, high above the highway, and water trickled down the sides of all the road cuts, which were covered in dense, green foliage.

 

When we found ourselves descending from the mountainous ridge, and out of the Parque Nacional Braulio Carrillo, roads were bordered by rural towns and villages, open-air schools, and large banana and pineapple farms. The banana bunches on the trees were all covered with a blue bag, something to help prevent pests from destroying valuable agriculture.  Our elevation was slowly approaching sea level when we could finally see the Caribbean Coast just off the shores of Limon. It was a beautiful sight. From Limon we drove south, driving on a road that flirted with the sea, until we reached the place we were to spend 5 days: La Petita in Manzanillo.

Some wild fruit growing in Manzanillo

La Petita was a cute rental house nestled in the Refugio Nacional Gandoca-Manzanillo. In the shade of tall trees covered in green, this house was made of beautiful local woods with an open-air kitchen and hammocks to rest in. Howler monkeys swung from the trees, cacao trees dotted the landscape, and many colorful birds, including Toucans, flew overhead. As if this landscape wasn’t wonderful enough, the icing on the cake was the path through the rainforest to the beach. It was a walk that stimulated all your senses, winding through the rainforest on a path of wooden planks, where the sound of the waves crashing into the sand became progressively louder. When we returned after dark you could watch the lightening over the horizon even though the sky was cloudless and you could see every star imaginable and more….

The walkway thru the jungle to the beach. Manzanillo, Costa Rica
The beach after the walk through the Jungle. Costa Rica Aug 2010
Looking up the coast at the village of Manzanillo, Costa Rica